If ever there were an indulgent dilemma, choosing the wine region on which to hone your sights and tastebuds during a vacation to
France would have to be one of them.
So, all together now, raise a glass to eliminating some of the guesswork on where to get the well rounded, full-bodied French wine experience.
Wine-loving world traveler, meet Saint-Emilion. One of the most beautiful, historic and overall impressive wine regions in
France (and for a country whose cup positively runneth over with oenophile superlatives, that’s saying a lot).
Saint-Emilion -- located some 25 miles northeast of
Bordeaux and roughly six hour's drive from
Paris -- is the oldest of the four principal red wine regions in the legendary Bordeaux appellation.
The wines that hail from here, rich in color and body, are considered among the most robust in
Bordeaux, and reach maturity more quickly than those from nearby regions.
But the wine tasting experience in Saint-Emilion has as much to do with the depth of the region’s wine roots (the locale was the first wine growing area to be named a UNESCO World Heritage site) as with the sheer aesthetics of the town itself.
Situated on the right bank of the Dordogne River, Saint-Emilion is one of those postcard perfect enclaves that can, at first glance, seem too good to be true.
Vineyards radiate from the town in tidy rows of mostly merlot vines that creep up to the very edge of the ancient stone streets. Rues are lined with Romanesque churches and homes dating back several centuries that seem to topple downhill in a cascade of red tile roofs. Children kick soccer balls in the pedestrian-only alleys, their chatter echoing off the ancient limestone walls. And boutiques and wine cellars bid you bienvenue with signs offering international shipping and the luxury of “English spoken (with a French accent).”
Indeed, if you visit in the summer months, the abundance of American tourists looking for the veritable French experience can detract a bit from town’s authentically French charm. But plan a getaway to Saint-Emilion during the autumn harvest or spring months and you’ll be hard pressed to have a more civilized escape.
Where to Sleep:
Château Millaud-Montlabert is a family home dating to the 18th century. It is surrounded by grand cru vineyards and sits just a few miles from the town center. Now that he’s retired, patriarch Monsieur Claude Brieux’s extended family tends the vines and lead morning tours of the vineyard following your breakfast of fresh breads and seasonal homemade jams. The recently renovated Hostellerie de Plaisance, a Relais & Chateaux property, is the most luxurious option in the heart of Saint-Emilion, with panoramic views of the village and vineyards and one of the most decadent breakfasts imaginable. The Grand Barrail, a 19th century chateau set on expansive grounds, offers autumn packages that include Scottish baths and beauty treatments at the onsite spa, buffet breakfasts and wine tasting tours to Chateau la Gaffeliere. If you’re seeking cozy rather than grand, consider the Logis de la Cadene, tucked on a serpentine street in town. Most rooms have views and high ceilings, and the building dates to 1848.
