3 Days in Crete

A boat ride south of the Greek mainland and the Athenian capital, Crete is an island paradise that combines Hellenic hospitality with mythology, Mediterranean cuisine, and endless sandy beaches. Boasting a rugged landscape that complements its beaches with snow-capped mountains, fertile valleys and deep ravines, Crete is a land of fresh fish, olive groves and ocean vistas.

It should also be mentioned that Crete has shifted its stance toward Caribbean mega-tourism over the past few decades. And while a plethora of pensions, villas and studios remain to be rented, there is now a multitude of luxury resorts full of the usual pitfalls of grand-scale accommodations. First of all, due to the sprawling nature of resorts, many of them have been developed on beaches that lie outside their nearby city center. And although the ocean vistas are generally spectacular, the quality of food and service can sometimes get lost in the transition from local charm to the herculean proportions of resorts.

This may be especially true on Crete, because the character of Greek life flourishes in its cafés, taverns and casual restaurants. In these places, you may find rudimentary English, but the relaxed character of the locals should seduce you into drinking espresso and smoking cigarettes with the men who spend their time chewing the fat while sitting on stoops. This scene can, of course, be found in any Greek village, but the Delphic oracle has decreed that the Venetian architecture and narrow, quaint streets in Chania should be your home base.

Day 1: Chania

The first thing to know about Crete is that, unlike other Greek islands such as Corfu, Santorini or Mykonos, it is a very large island that necessitates renting a car. Of course, you first need to fly into Athens, where you can transfer onto one of three daily flights to Chania (Hania), Crete’s second largest city. Once in this old Venetian port city, be sure to have a reserved car waiting for you. Again, because of Crete’s size and the variety of its scenic and cultural landscape, a vehicle really is the best way to avoid being at a standstill.

On the drive into town, don’t miss the chance to stop at Nykterida, one of Crete’s finest restaurants. With traditional Cretan music playing three nights a week, Nykterida is located between the airport and Chania. Built into the mountainside, the sleek white structure looks down on the Mediterranean and features an extensive menu of fresh and local delicacies. Be sure to acquaint yourself with the Cretan appetizers: The Cretan pie (with avocado, pastourma, yogurt, and arugula) and fried eggplant (with smoked pork and goat cheese) are both otherworldly. For the main course, try either the lamb kebabs or the pork tenderloin (take the one stuffed with chestnuts, raisins and smothered in chestnut sauce). After passing on dessert, you’re ready to wind your way down the mountains and into Chania.

As you drive into town, head toward the Old Port, where you’ll find the Casa Leone Hotel looming over the banks of the harbor. The newly-renovated hotel is a 600-year-old Venetian building, and its design epitomizes the Venetian architecture that remains a part of the city’s identity long after 400 years of Renaissance-era Venetian rule (1204-1645).

Overlooking Chania’s harbor, the Casa Leone’s French doors open onto a beautiful terrace in the heart of the Old Port’s nightlife. And if that’s not enough, its four-poster beds are the stuff of queens’ dreams. The room aside, the Casa Leone is also centrally located, allowing you to wander through the town’s streets and back alleys, where narrow corridors and small bridges careen through the city. In these alleyways, you can discover some of the best shops, cafés and taverns Chania has to offer.

If, on the other hand, you’re looking for a seaside resort, the Creta Paradise Beach Resort is on the nearby Gerani Beach, and the grounds are beautifully landscaped in the style of a Mediterranean villa. Equipped with all the modern resort amenities, the resort is located a little less than seven miles from the center of Chania, and its sublime landscaping really sets it apart from newly built competitors. And if you happen to visit during the summer, sea turtles lay their eggs on the Gerani Beach from May to June; in August, the eggs hatch and the babies take off into the sea.