Turquoise Trail
By SALLY WALKER DAVIES
Leaving Santa Fe and heading south on New Mexico 14, the Turquoise Trail Scenic Byway isn't at first blush all that scenic. But it's what lies just around the next bend, or up that long dirt road, that makes this area of north central New Mexico so enchanting.
The Turquoise Trail is the back road from Albuquerque to Santa Fe - a dotted path of old mining towns stretching northeast, encompassing a vast area of scrub-brushed hills, winding ranch roads, dilapidated structures butting up against lavish adobe homes, and wide open vistas. Cerrillos, Golden and Madrid (pronounced MAD-rid) are the former mining towns along the Turquoise Trail – named for the abundant deposits of turquoise deep in the surrounding hills. Despite their common history, these small towns offer very divergent ambiances. Golden, site of the first gold rush west of the Mississippi, has lost most of the luster associated with its namesake history and is now little more than a wide spot in the road. Madrid and Cerrillos, however, have reinvented themselves, using their ghost-town legacies to their advantage.
Founded as a coal-mining town in 1890, Madrid is a charming (some might say groovy) alternative to the fashionable galleries of Santa Fe's Canyon Road. Stroll through the eclectic collection of shops and galleries on the main road to find hand crafted jewelry and textiles, as well as the sculpture and paintings of area artisans.
The Mineshaft Tavern, located at the former entrance to the coalmine, is a favorite watering hole of locals and visitors, and serves one of the best bacon cheeseburgers anywhere. There's a coffee bar / B&B combo called Java Junction housed in an old miner's quarters; a second in-town B&B, Madrid Lodging, occupies the former bordello and offers a clothing optional hot-tub. The Old Coal Mine Museum features relics from the mining days, including mine maps, tools and a restored 1900 locomotive. The museum is also home to the Engine House Theatre, which presents turn of the century melodramas.
Just a few miles north of Madrid on NM 14 is Cerrillos. Dusty dirt streets and a few buckboard sidewalks evoke a feeling of the Old West, and not surprisingly, the town has served as the backdrop for movies. In the 1880's, Cerrillos was home to 21 saloons and four hotels. Today, just a few businesses remain in the downtown area, including the Casa Grande Trading Post and Petting Zoo, the Turquoise Mining Museum and the What Not Shop.
The Turquoise Trail is the back road from Albuquerque to Santa Fe - a dotted path of old mining towns stretching northeast, encompassing a vast area of scrub-brushed hills, winding ranch roads, dilapidated structures butting up against lavish adobe homes, and wide open vistas. Cerrillos, Golden and Madrid (pronounced MAD-rid) are the former mining towns along the Turquoise Trail – named for the abundant deposits of turquoise deep in the surrounding hills. Despite their common history, these small towns offer very divergent ambiances. Golden, site of the first gold rush west of the Mississippi, has lost most of the luster associated with its namesake history and is now little more than a wide spot in the road. Madrid and Cerrillos, however, have reinvented themselves, using their ghost-town legacies to their advantage.
Founded as a coal-mining town in 1890, Madrid is a charming (some might say groovy) alternative to the fashionable galleries of Santa Fe's Canyon Road. Stroll through the eclectic collection of shops and galleries on the main road to find hand crafted jewelry and textiles, as well as the sculpture and paintings of area artisans.
The Mineshaft Tavern, located at the former entrance to the coalmine, is a favorite watering hole of locals and visitors, and serves one of the best bacon cheeseburgers anywhere. There's a coffee bar / B&B combo called Java Junction housed in an old miner's quarters; a second in-town B&B, Madrid Lodging, occupies the former bordello and offers a clothing optional hot-tub. The Old Coal Mine Museum features relics from the mining days, including mine maps, tools and a restored 1900 locomotive. The museum is also home to the Engine House Theatre, which presents turn of the century melodramas.
Just a few miles north of Madrid on NM 14 is Cerrillos. Dusty dirt streets and a few buckboard sidewalks evoke a feeling of the Old West, and not surprisingly, the town has served as the backdrop for movies. In the 1880's, Cerrillos was home to 21 saloons and four hotels. Today, just a few businesses remain in the downtown area, including the Casa Grande Trading Post and Petting Zoo, the Turquoise Mining Museum and the What Not Shop.
Mass at St. Joseph's Catholic Church is said in a mixture of Spanish and English. The newly opened Cerrillos Hills Historic Park features hike and bike trails, and offers guided tours. Mine shafts are abundant in the park, although not currently open to the public; there is work underway to allow safe access to some of the sites. The Broken Saddle Riding Company offers armchair-like trail rides on Tennessee Walkers through the hills.
B&Bs are plentiful in the area – but one, Hacienda Doña Andrea de Santa Fe, stands out for both its natural beauty and its lush accommodations.
Each of the Hacienda's nine bedrooms has a private bath and fireplace, are decorated with lush linens, Mexican tile and native rugs. Some rooms include sleeping lofts; perfect for those traveling with young children. Throughout the house, smooth plaster walls are subtly vibrant in the hues of the Southwest, and act as a backdrop for a collection of folk art and Mexican icons. The hacienda's huge and beautiful main doors were salvaged from a 16th century Mexican hacienda.
Afternoon snacks and evening libations are taken throughout the hacienda, either on the lower level with its cozy seating areas and large Kiva fireplace, or upstairs on the main floor in small groupings. Hearty breakfasts and evening appetizers are included, and weather permitting, can be taken outside on the large balcony with a view north to Santa Fe.
During the days, the area offers a variety of activities: spa indulgences and gallery walks in Santa Fe, horseback riding, hiking, a tram ride to the top of Sandia Peak in the Cibola National Forest – all the jewels of the area are a stone’s throw from the Turquoise Trail.
B&Bs are plentiful in the area – but one, Hacienda Doña Andrea de Santa Fe, stands out for both its natural beauty and its lush accommodations.
Each of the Hacienda's nine bedrooms has a private bath and fireplace, are decorated with lush linens, Mexican tile and native rugs. Some rooms include sleeping lofts; perfect for those traveling with young children. Throughout the house, smooth plaster walls are subtly vibrant in the hues of the Southwest, and act as a backdrop for a collection of folk art and Mexican icons. The hacienda's huge and beautiful main doors were salvaged from a 16th century Mexican hacienda.
Afternoon snacks and evening libations are taken throughout the hacienda, either on the lower level with its cozy seating areas and large Kiva fireplace, or upstairs on the main floor in small groupings. Hearty breakfasts and evening appetizers are included, and weather permitting, can be taken outside on the large balcony with a view north to Santa Fe.
During the days, the area offers a variety of activities: spa indulgences and gallery walks in Santa Fe, horseback riding, hiking, a tram ride to the top of Sandia Peak in the Cibola National Forest – all the jewels of the area are a stone’s throw from the Turquoise Trail.
