The Stars of Lexington
Lexington is to horseracing what Hollywood is to the entertainment industry: The heart and soul of the business, home to the industry's stars (both four- and two-legged) and the epicenter of America 's thoroughbred world.
But while Lexington eats, sleeps and dreams horses, there's much more than equine enticements in Kentucky 's Bluegrass region. With more than 200 antique stores and dozens of art galleries in the area, a weekend spent at the races and in search of great finds is a winning combination.
Lean on the rails
The first thoroughbred was brought to Kentucky in 1779; ten years later, horses would outnumber residents of Lexington . Today, there are more than 450 horse farms in the region.
Keeneland is the local track, and while it's not as famous as Louisville 's Churchill Downs, its races are some of the richest in the world. The area's top trainers exercise their string of horses daily and analyze the results over breakfast at the track kitchen, which offers a hearty breakfast and the chance to rub shoulders with racing's rock stars. Whatever the weather, the daily workouts take place starting at first light, and a spot on the rails is where one gets closest to the action.
Keeneland's race meetings are in April and October, when tickets are required. But for the remainder of the year the race track is wide open and free to the public. There's no admission charged to watch the workouts or attend the sales (held in January, April, July, September and November), and a hearty breakfast at the track kitchen runs about $6 per person.
Park it
Part theme part, part museum, the Kentucky Horse Park is home to more than 50 breeds of horse, from draft horses to Tennessee Walking Horses and regal Arabians.
Activities vary by season and include wagon and pony rides; a variety of polo, dressage and other competitions are held in the park's equestrian arenas in the winter months. During warmer months, the fields are filled with polo matches and trials for a variety of national competitions. The park is also home to the prestigious Rolex Kentucky Three-Day Event, an annual event that's on par with Olympic competition.
Two museums the American Saddlebred Museum and the International Museum of the Horse, celebrate both the history of the species and the special relationship between man and horse.
Behind the fences
Calumet . Three Chimneys. Darby Dan. Ashford Stud. The names of the farms and breeders that have produced the likes of Seattle Slew, Man O' War and Secretariat may not be as well-known outside Lexington as their stars, but these are a few of the crowned heads racing.
Unlike most royal palaces, however, many of the region's 450 farms warmly welcome visitors . Dropping by unannounced, however, is not the way to go; rather, hire a private guide, reserve a seat on a group tour, or call a variety of farms to make personal appointments.
It's also possible to visit with some of racing's fading stars. Old Friends is one of a few organizations dedicated to caring for retired racehorses, whether champions or not. Visits to the farm, home of movie star Popcorn Deelites ( Seabiscuit) and others, are free of charge and must be reserved in advance.
Arts & Antiques
Downtown Lexington is full of art galleries and antiques shops. Try East Main Street for large, multi-dealer shops and 18 th and 19 th century furniture and Clay Avenue off East Main for rugs and oddities. Scattered throughout both streets are the city's finest galleries, including Artist's Attic and Ann Tower on East Main . And a visit to Tuska Studio to view the collection of the reknowned John Regis Tuska is a must.
Outside the city, wandering through the beautiful rolling hills of the Lexington area isn't just a matter of taking the scenic route. Traveling the designated scenic byways to the small towns of Midway or Nonesuch is like finding antiquing gold at the end of a rainbow; the bucolic scenery along the way is an added bonus.
Midway's downtown area is only a block or so long but it is filled with antique and gift shops. The town was named for being the midpoint between Lexington and Frankfort , as well as being equidistant between Versailles and Georgetown . Almost two dozen antique and specialty stores line the town's two main streets, Main and Winter.
Nearby Nonesuch is home to the astounding Irish Acres Antique Gallery 30,000-plus square feet of everything from fine antiques to a $5 piece of cookware. Famished shoppers can rejuvenate with a meal at the gallery's Glitz restaurant.
If you go: Lexington
General information: The Lexington Convention and Visitor's Bureau Web site, www.visitlex.com , offers detailed information on Lexington 's equine attractions, as well as dining and lodging options. The Kentucky Tourism Web site, www.kentuckytourism.com , has excellent resources for trip planning.
Lodging: The Marriott Griffin Gate Resort is centrally located to allow easy access to downtown, Keeneland Race Track, and the Kentucky Horse Park . Recent renovations to the guest rooms and public areas are complete; the addition of a spa featuring regional herbal treatments and other upgraded amenities are scheduled for completion April 1. The resort, located on the former Griffin Farm, offers fine dining in the original farm house, an elegant mansion. 1800 Newtown Pike, Lexington . 859-231-5100. www.marriott.com/property/propertypage/LEXKY
Attractions
Keeneland
4201 Versailles Road , Lexington . 859-254-3412. www.keeneland.com .
Open daily from 6 am; gift shop open daily; hours vary by season. During the April and October race meetings, general admission tickets start at $3, with reserved seating ranging from $6 to $15. The remainder of the year, the racecourse, stables and sales are open to the public at no charge.
Kentucky Horse Park / American Saddlebred Museum / International Museum of the Horse 4 089 Iron Works Parkway , Lexington . 859-233-4303. www.kyhorsepark.com.
The park is open daily from 9 am 5pm from mid-March through October, and open Wednesday Sunday from 9 am 5pm from November first through March 14. Admission is $8 for children 7-12 and $15 for adults, with a $3 parking charge from March 15 October 31. From November 1 to March 14, admission drops to $6 for children 7-12 and $9 for adults, and parking is free. Children under 7 are admitted free year round. Admission to both museums is included in ticket prices.
Thoroughbred Training Center 3380 Paris Pike, Lexington . 859-293-1853. www.thethoroughbredcenter.com.
Tours are given Monday-Friday, at 9 am, 10:30 am and 1 pm, and on Saturday at 9 am and 10:30 am from April through October. November through March, tours are conducted Monday-Friday, at 10:30 am and by appointment. Tours are $10 for adults and $5 for children.
Scott Goodlett Tours 800-450-6444. Tours for 1-3 people start at $189 for the group, and includes any admission fees and guide fees. All tours are customized to the group's interests, and should be arranged as far in advance as possible.
Old Friends 1841 Paynes Depot Road , Georgetown . 502-863-1775 www.oldfriendsequine.org . Tours are free and must be reserved in advance. Donations to the non-profit organization are welcome.
Driving
The National Scenic Byways Web site, www.byways.org , has excellent information and maps for a scenic drive through the heart of horse country. www.byways.org/browse/states/KY is the specific link for Kentucky .
Dining
Keeneland Track Kitchen Located in the barn area, the track kitchen offers a hearty country breakfast. Open to the public year-round from 6 to 11 am daily, 7 days a week (closed the first two weeks in February and holidays).
Portofino 249 E Main Street, downtown Lexington . 859-253-9300.
Monday Friday 11am 3 pm, 5 pm-11pm; Saturday and Sunday 5 pm-11 pm
Wallace Station Located between Midway and Versailles , on the Old Frankfort Pike. 859-846-5161. Open Monday through Saturday 8 am - 5 pm and Sunday 11 am-4 pm. Hours may vary seasonally.
Winchell's 348 Southland Drive . Lexington . 859-278-9424. Lunch and dinner daily.
Shopping
The Gift Shop at Keeneland 866-477-4339. Hours are 9 am 4 pm Monday Saturday.
