Not the Liberty Bell: Philly’s Weird Museums Astound
By LAURA B. WEISS
In 1863, Ellen Jones was murdered with an ax.
Though Ms. Jones met her maker nearly 150 years ago, I was able to inspect her perfectly preserved skull—with the slash mark from the ax still clearly visible—thanks to Philadelphia’s Mutter Museum, one of the City of Brotherly Love’s many oddball—not to mention weird and fantastic—collections.
My husband hails from Philly and over the years we’ve visited sites, like the Liberty Bell and Independence Hall that mark America’s drive toward independence. But this time, I yearned to see something with a little edge, and Philadelphia’s strange museums didn’t fail to deliver. In fact, these off-the-beaten track sites rival the standard attractions when it comes to history – though instead of the Liberty Bell, you may find yourself enthralled by the fabulous and colorful costumes donned by thousands of Mummers who strut their stuff during Philly’s contribution to the gaudy and wacky: the annual New Year’s Day Mummers parade.
What also sets these attractions apart is their size (you can cover each easily in under an hour), their single focus (the Mutter has collected 20,000 medical and anatomical oddities), and their off-beat exhibits. At the Mutter Museum, for example, you can view a giant colon that resembles a boa constrictor more than any human organ.
While you’ll need a car to get to the Mummers Museum in South Philly, many other institutions are clustered within reasonable walking distance from one another in the city’s lively Center City area, which abounds with restaurants, galleries and shops. So experience the wild side, and include a visit to one or more of these attractions in your Philadelphia itinerary.
Mummers Museum
1100 South 2nd Street, (2nd St. and Washington Ave.)
215 336 3050
Hours: Oct.-April, Tuesday-Saturday, 9:30 a.m.-4:30 p.m.; Sunday, noon-4:30 p.m.; May-Sept., Tuesday, Wednesday, Friday, Saturday, 9:30 a.m.-4:30 a.m.; Thursday, 9:30 a.m.-9:30 p.m.; Sunday, noon-4:30 p.m.
When I spotted a brightly hued blue, orange and green building on Washington and 2nd Street (call it Two Street if you want to talk like the locals) in South Philadelphia, I knew we had arrived at the museum dedicated to the members of these unique clubs. Every January 1, 8,000 Mummers don fantastic costumes and strut through Philadelphia entertaining thousand of appreciative onlookers who brave the cold to view this unique procession. Though organized groups of Mummers first formed in the 1800’s, the clubs (there are now 44 major ones with fanciful names like the Jokers and Merry Makers) didn’t formally establish their New Year’s Day parade tradition until 1901.
Though Ms. Jones met her maker nearly 150 years ago, I was able to inspect her perfectly preserved skull—with the slash mark from the ax still clearly visible—thanks to Philadelphia’s Mutter Museum, one of the City of Brotherly Love’s many oddball—not to mention weird and fantastic—collections.
My husband hails from Philly and over the years we’ve visited sites, like the Liberty Bell and Independence Hall that mark America’s drive toward independence. But this time, I yearned to see something with a little edge, and Philadelphia’s strange museums didn’t fail to deliver. In fact, these off-the-beaten track sites rival the standard attractions when it comes to history – though instead of the Liberty Bell, you may find yourself enthralled by the fabulous and colorful costumes donned by thousands of Mummers who strut their stuff during Philly’s contribution to the gaudy and wacky: the annual New Year’s Day Mummers parade.
What also sets these attractions apart is their size (you can cover each easily in under an hour), their single focus (the Mutter has collected 20,000 medical and anatomical oddities), and their off-beat exhibits. At the Mutter Museum, for example, you can view a giant colon that resembles a boa constrictor more than any human organ.
While you’ll need a car to get to the Mummers Museum in South Philly, many other institutions are clustered within reasonable walking distance from one another in the city’s lively Center City area, which abounds with restaurants, galleries and shops. So experience the wild side, and include a visit to one or more of these attractions in your Philadelphia itinerary.
Mummers Museum
1100 South 2nd Street, (2nd St. and Washington Ave.)
215 336 3050
Hours: Oct.-April, Tuesday-Saturday, 9:30 a.m.-4:30 p.m.; Sunday, noon-4:30 p.m.; May-Sept., Tuesday, Wednesday, Friday, Saturday, 9:30 a.m.-4:30 a.m.; Thursday, 9:30 a.m.-9:30 p.m.; Sunday, noon-4:30 p.m.
When I spotted a brightly hued blue, orange and green building on Washington and 2nd Street (call it Two Street if you want to talk like the locals) in South Philadelphia, I knew we had arrived at the museum dedicated to the members of these unique clubs. Every January 1, 8,000 Mummers don fantastic costumes and strut through Philadelphia entertaining thousand of appreciative onlookers who brave the cold to view this unique procession. Though organized groups of Mummers first formed in the 1800’s, the clubs (there are now 44 major ones with fanciful names like the Jokers and Merry Makers) didn’t formally establish their New Year’s Day parade tradition until 1901.
The main attractions in this homey museum (some exhibits don’t work) are the elaborate and colorful costumes situated by the entrance and an entire room devoted to these glittery creations. There are witches, warlocks and fancy dress ladies and gentlemen. Sequins, feather and glitter abound. The sound of the Mummers’ distinctive string bands plays in the background (you can push some buttons and create your own mix with banjos, saxophones and other instruments) and photos and text chart the history of this Philadelphia institution. What does it take to be a mummer? “You have to be crazy,” jokes museum director, Palma Lucas, who adds that with the expense and time involved, it’s “a 365 day a year commitment.”
Mutter Museum
19 South 22nd Street
215 563 3737
Hours: Monday-Thursday, 10a.m.-5 p.m.; Friday, 10 a.m.-9 pm; Saturday and Sunday, 10 a.m.-5 p.m.
For lovers of the morbid, the ghoulish, the eccentric and the weird—and for those with a keen interest in early American medical history—the Mutter Museum is a must-see attraction. Housed in the ornate Victorian headquarters of the College of Physicians of Philadelphia and established in 1858, the two-floor museum, with its wood-enclosed glass cases, resembles a small town historical society much more than a medical museum specializing in 20,000 odd specimens; many dating from the 19th century. What’s so odd about medical specimens? For starters, there are 2,000 objects, all extracted from people’s throats; 139 skulls; the giant colon; and the perfectly preserved brain of one John Wilson, who was put to death after he was convicted for dismembering his employer. The skeleton of a 7 foot 6 inch giant, said to be the second tallest in the world, competes for attention with the “soap lady.” This pour soul, who died some time after 1793, was transformed by the type of soil in which she lay buried into a human bar of soap. “We don’t know her name but she was found in a mass grave” in nearby Washington Square, explains Anna N. Dhody, the Mutter’s curator.
The Fabric Workshop and Museum
1315 Cherry Street, 5th and 6th Floors
215 568 1111
Hours: Monday-Friday 10 a.m. to 6 p.m.; Saturday 12 p.m. to 4 p.m.
My first stop at this 30-year old museum and artists’ work space that celebrates objects created from fabric, rubber, plastic and other non-traditional materials, was not one of the galleries in this two-floor loft-like space housed in a former printing factory, but the men’s room. “It’s fine,” the guide reassured me, after knocking on the door to make sure the coast was clear. Inside, I was greeted by riotous floral wallpaper, covering the bathroom’s interior from floor to ceiling. Punctuating the blue, green, yellow and red floral print were photographs of classmates drawn from artist Virgil Marti’s high school yearbook. “Those are the boys who bullied him,” explained the guide.
But there’s more to entice visitors than the rest room at this fascinating museum. (Because of the nearby Convention Center’s expansion, the workshop and galleries will be moving some time this summer.) With a permanent collection of 5,500 items, the Fabric Museum reveals how artists can create art works and contemporary designs—from puffy cartoon-like chairs to vibrant silk screened works—using materials like fabric and plastic to gorgeous effect. Works by well-known artists like Robert Venturi and Howard Finster are sprinkled throughout the collection. And the museum runs a workshop for established and budding fabric artists. A special thrill is observing them at work. While touring the workshop (the space is open to the public), I ran into fabric artist, Lauren Rossi, who was busy working on a gorgeous hand silk screened blue and black scarf. Don’t miss the gift shop where tote bags, scarves, pillows and other articles by Fabric Museum artists are for sale.
Rosenbach Museum
2008-2010 DeLancey Pl.
Philadelphia, PA 19103
215 732-1600
Hours: Tuesday, Thursday, and Friday, 10 a.m.-5 p.m.; Wednesday, 10 a.m.-8 p.m.; Saturday and Sunday, 10 a.m.-5 p.m.
By the time I reached the Rosenbach Museum, I was more than ready for its quiet elegance. Situated in a stately 1860s red brick townhouse on a beautiful Center City residential street, the lavishly appointed house once belonged to Dr. A.S. W. Rosenbach and his brother, Philip. Together, they assembled the museum’s world class collection of 30,000 rare books and manuscripts, (including the only surviving example of the first printing of Yankee Doodle), and its outstanding antiques and paintings. Today, the museum is perhaps best known as the home of over 10,000 drawings and manuscripts given to the Rosenbach by acclaimed children’s author and illustrator, Maurice Sendak. My enthusiastic guide led me up an ornate carved wooden staircase where I examined Sendak’s high school literary magazine drawings, as well as the posters, opera playbills, and personal doodles he has created over the years. It was disappointing not to be able to view images from Sendak masterpieces, like Where the Wild Things Are and In the Night Kitchen. Still, when I was escorted into the second-floor library, I was instantly appeased. There, stood walls of wood paneled book cases filled with beautifully preserved rare books; in the center of the room sits a massive 16th century Italian walnut table, part of the museum’s impressive collection of antiques.
Where to Eat
Only a few blocks from the Mummers Museum sits Philly’s famed Italian Market. You can graze at the produce stands and fabulous Italian specialty foods stores, or for outstanding, fresh seafood stop at Anastasi, 9th St. and Washington Ave., 215 462 0550. The crab cake is the real thing: big chunks of crab and very little filler. For more upscale inventive French bistro food, try BYOB (bring your own bottle) eatery, Pif, at 1009 South 8th St., 215-625-2923. Renowned cheese steak parlors, Gino’s, 1219 S. Ninth St., 215 389 0659 and Pat’s, 1237 E. Passyunk Ave., 215 468 1546 are also close by.
After visiting the Fabric Museum, head for the historic Reading Terminal Market, 12th and Arch, 215 922 2317. There are hoagies (Philadelphians’ name for sub sandwiches), soft pretzels, and all manner of take-out food. Don’t forget to stop at Bassetts, a home town favorite for luscious, rich ice cream treats.
Mutter Museum
19 South 22nd Street
215 563 3737
Hours: Monday-Thursday, 10a.m.-5 p.m.; Friday, 10 a.m.-9 pm; Saturday and Sunday, 10 a.m.-5 p.m.
For lovers of the morbid, the ghoulish, the eccentric and the weird—and for those with a keen interest in early American medical history—the Mutter Museum is a must-see attraction. Housed in the ornate Victorian headquarters of the College of Physicians of Philadelphia and established in 1858, the two-floor museum, with its wood-enclosed glass cases, resembles a small town historical society much more than a medical museum specializing in 20,000 odd specimens; many dating from the 19th century. What’s so odd about medical specimens? For starters, there are 2,000 objects, all extracted from people’s throats; 139 skulls; the giant colon; and the perfectly preserved brain of one John Wilson, who was put to death after he was convicted for dismembering his employer. The skeleton of a 7 foot 6 inch giant, said to be the second tallest in the world, competes for attention with the “soap lady.” This pour soul, who died some time after 1793, was transformed by the type of soil in which she lay buried into a human bar of soap. “We don’t know her name but she was found in a mass grave” in nearby Washington Square, explains Anna N. Dhody, the Mutter’s curator.
The Fabric Workshop and Museum
1315 Cherry Street, 5th and 6th Floors
215 568 1111
Hours: Monday-Friday 10 a.m. to 6 p.m.; Saturday 12 p.m. to 4 p.m.
My first stop at this 30-year old museum and artists’ work space that celebrates objects created from fabric, rubber, plastic and other non-traditional materials, was not one of the galleries in this two-floor loft-like space housed in a former printing factory, but the men’s room. “It’s fine,” the guide reassured me, after knocking on the door to make sure the coast was clear. Inside, I was greeted by riotous floral wallpaper, covering the bathroom’s interior from floor to ceiling. Punctuating the blue, green, yellow and red floral print were photographs of classmates drawn from artist Virgil Marti’s high school yearbook. “Those are the boys who bullied him,” explained the guide.
But there’s more to entice visitors than the rest room at this fascinating museum. (Because of the nearby Convention Center’s expansion, the workshop and galleries will be moving some time this summer.) With a permanent collection of 5,500 items, the Fabric Museum reveals how artists can create art works and contemporary designs—from puffy cartoon-like chairs to vibrant silk screened works—using materials like fabric and plastic to gorgeous effect. Works by well-known artists like Robert Venturi and Howard Finster are sprinkled throughout the collection. And the museum runs a workshop for established and budding fabric artists. A special thrill is observing them at work. While touring the workshop (the space is open to the public), I ran into fabric artist, Lauren Rossi, who was busy working on a gorgeous hand silk screened blue and black scarf. Don’t miss the gift shop where tote bags, scarves, pillows and other articles by Fabric Museum artists are for sale.
Rosenbach Museum
2008-2010 DeLancey Pl.
Philadelphia, PA 19103
215 732-1600
Hours: Tuesday, Thursday, and Friday, 10 a.m.-5 p.m.; Wednesday, 10 a.m.-8 p.m.; Saturday and Sunday, 10 a.m.-5 p.m.
By the time I reached the Rosenbach Museum, I was more than ready for its quiet elegance. Situated in a stately 1860s red brick townhouse on a beautiful Center City residential street, the lavishly appointed house once belonged to Dr. A.S. W. Rosenbach and his brother, Philip. Together, they assembled the museum’s world class collection of 30,000 rare books and manuscripts, (including the only surviving example of the first printing of Yankee Doodle), and its outstanding antiques and paintings. Today, the museum is perhaps best known as the home of over 10,000 drawings and manuscripts given to the Rosenbach by acclaimed children’s author and illustrator, Maurice Sendak. My enthusiastic guide led me up an ornate carved wooden staircase where I examined Sendak’s high school literary magazine drawings, as well as the posters, opera playbills, and personal doodles he has created over the years. It was disappointing not to be able to view images from Sendak masterpieces, like Where the Wild Things Are and In the Night Kitchen. Still, when I was escorted into the second-floor library, I was instantly appeased. There, stood walls of wood paneled book cases filled with beautifully preserved rare books; in the center of the room sits a massive 16th century Italian walnut table, part of the museum’s impressive collection of antiques.
Where to Eat
Only a few blocks from the Mummers Museum sits Philly’s famed Italian Market. You can graze at the produce stands and fabulous Italian specialty foods stores, or for outstanding, fresh seafood stop at Anastasi, 9th St. and Washington Ave., 215 462 0550. The crab cake is the real thing: big chunks of crab and very little filler. For more upscale inventive French bistro food, try BYOB (bring your own bottle) eatery, Pif, at 1009 South 8th St., 215-625-2923. Renowned cheese steak parlors, Gino’s, 1219 S. Ninth St., 215 389 0659 and Pat’s, 1237 E. Passyunk Ave., 215 468 1546 are also close by.
After visiting the Fabric Museum, head for the historic Reading Terminal Market, 12th and Arch, 215 922 2317. There are hoagies (Philadelphians’ name for sub sandwiches), soft pretzels, and all manner of take-out food. Don’t forget to stop at Bassetts, a home town favorite for luscious, rich ice cream treats.
