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Hot Springs

By SALLY WALKER DAVIES
America’s very first national park turns 175 this year, and no, it is not Yellowstone.

Tiny Hot Springs National Park in Arkansas, just southwest of Little Rock in the Ouachita Mountains is not only the oldest at 175, but may also be the smallest park, with just 5500 acres.

Long before the area became a national park and a destination for thousands every year, the hot mineral springs offered up their healing power to the Native Americans who inhabited the area.

Once European settlers discovered the springs, word spread and Hot Springs became a destination for those looking for a cure for whatever ailed them.

Today, only one of the eight historic bathhouses which offered therapeutic treatments to rich and poor alike are still offers those treatments, but plans are underway to refurbish a number of the bathhouses into more modern spas, as well as a contemporary art museum.

The Fordyce Bathhouse, perhaps the most elaborate, features stained glass ceilings and marble throughout the men’s bath hall. Today, the Fordyce serves as the park’s visitor’s center, and offers a rich history of the park and its healing waters.

Take me to the water The Buckstaff Bathhouse is the only on Bathhouse Row which still offers traditional treatments; a few downtown hotels have bathhouses as well. The mineral therapy starts with hydrotherapy, or a soak in a mineral water whirlpool. Following the bath, there’s the steam sauna, a hot towel wrap and a pressurized shower. The treatment ends with a 20-minute massage.

There’s something delightfully institutional about receiving one of these traditional treatments, which costs about $60 for the whole package. Be warned that these bathhouses are in constant use and have seen better days; they are clean but worn, and nothing like the lush environments found in more contemporary spas. But a treatment at the Buckstaff or the Arlington Hotel is an experience not to be missed. Just remember your shower shoes.

There are a variety of day spas throughout the area which offer more modern spa treatments, including Turtle Cove Spa, located at Mountain Harbor resort, just outside Hot Springs. Many of the treatments at Turtle Cove include touches from the surrounding natural beauty, like massages which use hot stones from the nearby Lake Ouachita or locally mined quartz for a crystal energy balance.

Back to nature When not indulging in the therapeutic waters and treatments in Hot Springs, there’s plenty for nature lovers to do.

In the park itself are 26 miles of hiking trails; a number of trails start at the dual staircase behind the bathhouses. The hikes range from gentle Grande Promenade, which is just a half-mile, to the more rigorous Mountain Top, a 1.5 mile mostly uphill hike. Many of the trails bring hikers near the 216-foot mountain tower, an observation tower which affords a 140-mile view from its enclosed deck.

Just outside of downtown is Lake Hamilton, where anglers like to chase striper. Pleasure boating and water sports are also available on Lake Hamilton; further out on Lake Ouachita large parties can rent houseboats.

Hop on a horse for a view of the lakes from the quiet mountain forests in Lake Catherine and Lake Degray State Parks, or go on a quest for crystal and quartz –its finders, keepers in Arkansas.

Recharge the batteries Where you lay your head for the night depends on your personality. Couples will love the serenity of Lookout Pointe Lakeside Inn, where each room is uniquely furnished, the breakfasts are hearty, and benches are scattered along the shore for quiet moments.

Families and outdoorsy-types will either want to camp at one of the state parks, or kick it up a notch at Lake Ouachita’s Harbor Mountain Resort. The family-run resort has a marina and fishing charters and is home to the Turtle Cove Spa. The resort’s accommodations include large, family and group-friendly cabins tastefully furnished with antiques; many of the cabins have large decks and hot tubs.

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