Hill Country Weekend

There's just something about Texas .

It's hard to pin down exactly what the mystique that surrounds the state is; visitors often find themselves truly enchanted with Texas , but at a loss to explain why.

Perhaps it is because Texas is, like the state tourism slogan says, ?a whole other country'. It may be the most diverse state in the Union; with almost 268,000 square miles of space it has a coastline and mountain ranges, hills and plains, more fresh water than any other state with the exception of Alaska , and its biggest ranch -- the King Ranch -- is larger than the state of Rhode Island .

With so much diversity, however, comes a bit of anxiety when it comes to planning a trip to the Lone Star state.

But for a feel of the real heart of Texas -- from its cultural heritage to its cowboy swagger to its entrepreneurial spirit, there's no better place to start than in San Antonio , followed up by some time in the Hill Country.

San Antonio is perhaps best known for its Spanish missions, including the famed Alamo , where just fewer than 200 Texans and Tejanos held off a Mexican army estimated at 4,000 for 13 days from their tiny stronghold. From its Spanish and Mexican roots, however, San Antonio has grown into the country's seventh largest city, and is an eclectic mix of heritage, history and haute living.

Mission hopping

San Antonio 's Spanish missions are beautiful, each a bit different from the next, and all definitely worth the visit.

The Alamo , located in present-day downtown San Antonio , is of course the most famous, where less than 200 Texans and Tejanos held off over 4,000 Mexican troops for 13 days.  When seeing how small the Alamo is, one can imagine the cramped living -- and fighting -- conditions of those rebels. And no, there is no basement at the Alamo , despite what Pee Wee Herman maintained.

The city's other missions are south of the city, and all an easy drive from downtown. More information on the missions and their history can be found at  http://www.nps.gov/saan/ .

The River Walk The Paseo del Rio, or River Walk , is a winding cobblestone path along the San Antonio River , 20 feet below street level. Lined in most sections with shops, hotels and restaurants, the atmosphere along the River Walk is a lot like the river itself --quiet in some sections, boisterous in others. The River Walk is over two miles long, so there is plenty to explore; sight-seeing and dining cruises are available year-round

There are a number of great hotels in the River Walk area, including the historic Menger Hotel . The Menger Bar is where Teddy Roosevelt recruited his Rough Riders; a number of ghosts are said to inhabit the premises.

Market Square West of the River Walk, Market Square bursts with Mexican flavor, with art galleries and a farmer's market, restaurants and the Mercado, the biggest Mexican marketplace outside of Mexico. Leather goods, jewelry, and traditional Mexican clothing are sold at the Mercado , along with arts and crafts from across the country.

Eating:   Along the River Walk, try  Boudro's, which bills itself as a Texas bistro -- that means there's lots of meat and Mexican influence, like crab cake tostadas. Try a prickly pear margarita, too. In the Market Square area, check out the stores, including over two dozen authentic Mexican stores at  El Mercado. A meal at Mi Tierra is a must -- it is a bit touristy, but the food is authentic and the atmosphere festive.

The luxe life Where San Antonio meets up with the start of the Texas Hill Country, you'll find an amazing shopping area called The Shops at La Cantera . Think of it as a Mercado for the jet set: flagstone walkways meander along a small river, leading to boutique-y wonders like Burberry, Anthropolgie, Neiman-Marcus and more.

Head for the hills

The rolling Hill Country of Texas starts just north of San Antonio , spreading west to Uvalde and Junction, north and east to the outskirts of Austin , and north as far as Lampasas and Llano.

The hills are limestone, the terrain rugged -- the towns are a mixture of pure charm and cowboy life -- an intoxicating combination.

While each town is unique, two favorites are the German-settled Fredericksburg and the dude ranch capital of the world, Bandera.

Fredericksburg

As with most Hill Country towns, Fredericksburg is mainly agricultural -- peaches and other fruits and vegetables flourish in the rich soil. Its vibrant downtown area is chockfull of antique and home décor stores, boutiques, bakeries and restaurants, and is crammed with locals and visitors alike during the spring and fall.

Cowgirl up with vintage boots and silver-encrusted belts at Rawhide, or find a vintage-style western shirt for him at Parts Unknown. If you're traveling with Fido, pop into Dogologie for home-made treats or a luxe bed. The Secret Garden has clothing as well as an excellent selection of local folk art.

Fredericksburg 's most famous native son is probably Admiral Chester W. Nimitz, and the National Museum of the Pacific War tells the story of the battles in the Pacific Theater in World War II. There's an impressive display of both Japanese and American weapons, tanks and aircraft, a Japanese garden and exhibits chronicling the stories of those who fought.

Fredericksburg is the largest producer of peaches in the Lone Star State , so a stop at the Peach Tree Gift Gallery and Tea Room , just off Main Street , is almost required. Hearty sandwiches and Texas-inspired specialties are served up in large portions, along with the requisite peach-infused dishes.

Saddle up

Bandera is about 45 minutes west of San Antonio , and it's a whole other world -- the real cowboy side of Texas .

It's very common to see horses outside the grocery store or one of the honky-tonks on the main drag in town, almost as common as the other preferred method of transportation, a Suburban or pickup truck.

Downtown Bandera has just a few stores, a lot of honky tonks, and one must-stop -- the Bandera Forge. Grab a beer and sit on the porch outside the forge at night, and if you're really lucky, the Forge Band will be playing. Arkey Blue's Silver Dollar Saloon on Main Street is the real deal, with excellent regional bands and all the two-stepping you can handle. Dress down -- jeans and boots are de rigueur, there's no room for rhinestone cowboys at Arkey's.

Bandera's guest ranches are of the luxury variety, like Vista Verde in Steamboat or the Triple X in Jackson Hole . Guest ranches in Bandera run from the basic, like the Dixie Dude Ranch , to a bit more swank, like The Mayan , with something for everyone. Expect to see a lot of European visitors at the ranches.

Lay your head

If a long weekend in the Texas Hill Country sounds inviting, the most important aspect of the trip is planning. Sure, that holds true for any adventure -- but especially in Texas , where their idea of a short drive can be an hour.

For this itinerary, best to stay in the northern part of San Antonio, which puts you about 20 minutes from the River Walk and Alamo, and about 45 minutes from both Bandera and Fredericksburg.

An excellent option is the Westin La Cantera Resort , which offers a luxe ranch house feel with lush amenities and activities, including multiple pools, a spa and huge fitness facility, two PGA golf courses and a golf school, and across-the-street proximity to Fiesta Texas and The Shops at La Cantera.

Alternatively, consider spending a night in San Antonio , a night in Fredericksburg at one of the town's charming guest houses , and then two nights at one of Bandera's guest ranches . That lodging trifecta will give you a taste of Texas that's as pure as a spring-fed Hill Country Creek.